For those of you have not read me for years, I love traveling to conflict zones.
I’ve been to Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan and Saudi Arabia purely for the sake of going.
> Read More: Introduction: A Journey to Saudi Arabia and Afghanistan
Mom, if you’re reading now, time to close the window.
On my mind is a trip to Syria and a trip to North Korea.
Did you know that Four Seasons is still operating a hotel in Damascus? I want to write a story on what it is like to work for a five-star hotel in the capital city of a country embroiled in a six-year civil war.
This September, I want to go to the Wonsan Air Festival in North Korea. I’ve missed out on so many aircraft over the years that a chance to fly on a dozen Soviet aircraft is difficult to pass up.
And the beauty of this: it is my job. I’m not shirking life, reality, or my solemn responsibilities as husband and father. True, I don’t have to do what I do, but I’ve found a way to earn a living doing what I love. Loving your occupation is infectious: imagine me putting in 12 hours at a law firm each day then coming home stressed and exhausted.
But then there are days like today.
I already told you about my terrorism scare in London and now we have learned that 22-year-old Otto Warmbier has died. It’s easy enough to condemn Warmbier for stealing and say actions have consequences, but let’s not kid ourselves. Even if it was him in the grainy video ripping down a propaganda poster, torturing him for months before he fell into a coma and eventually died is a barbarically disproportionate response than should be condemned. We need not respect a savage legal system in furtherance of shallow diplomacy or jejune civility.
To Go or Not to Go?
Two events in the last 24 hours vividly demonstrate that the smallest of bad choices or even just being in the wrong place at the wrong time can have life-changing consequences.
I want to go to these places in order to tell the stories of others, better understand the world, provide for my family, and be a peacemaker.
My guilt is not over money: life insurance makes it profitable for me to die. Rather, my tension is over the deep struggle of any work life balance, a struggle over what priorities should truly be.
On 01/01 this year I resolved to fall asleep with my wife each night I am home. For the most part, I’ve kept that resolution. The few nights I’ve worked late have been clearly communicated in advance and purely of necessity.
The currency of love is time, but more time does not necessarily mean more love. If I felt my work was coming at the expense of my family, I would change careers. But I’m not guilty about being away for 1/5 of the year. Remember, my wife supports what I do. She is behind me 100%. Thus, my occupational guilt comes from societal norms and not a genuine need for repentance.
Yet sometimes my perspective is flawed and is certainly inherently biased. So I throw it out to you for discussion. Should I go to North Korea and Syria, especially after what happened today?
Honestly? No. You have an infant child and a wife, and when you have a kid you’re not allowed to do stupid stuff anymore. The North Korea consistently and essentially kidnaps U.S. citizens to use them as bargaining chips. No trip, experience or cultural immersion is worth leaving a wife and a baby behind. It’s not a gamble I’ll ever personally take, IMO, no matter the odds. Not trying to lecture you. Just my opinion since you asked the question.
Being a travel blogger doesn’t mean you have to go to Syria, or NK let’s be real. If I was your wife I wouldn’t let you go. And even worse you’re supporting these insane dictators.
No you shouldn’t go
Yes.
My tip: if you are planning on going to North Korea one day, resisting making anti-north Korea comments on your blog would be a wise idea.
I think most of us that read your blog are adventurous by nature but even so there are times or more specifically places where the odds are not in our favor. Although perhaps most importantly the percentage of readers that might actually entertain the idea of a trip to NK for instance has to be small enough to make it somewhat pointless. That being said, to each his own and safe travels! Greetings from Machu Pichu!
But you didn’t mention Palestine where the conflict has been ongoing for over 50 years! That is if you truly visit the OPT.
GO travel these areas as a political act & to support areas like as Palestine that has been militarily occupied illegally by the NON democratic state of Isreal which has resulted in a Defacto One state Aparteid Solution. Yes – Apaetheid happening now in Palestine.
Matthew, I really enjoy reading your blog. Your adventures are exciting and your reviews are informative and fun to read. There is no need to go to North Korea or Syria. Both are extremely dangerous and very few readers would have a desire to go here. Syria is an active war zone. North Korea is worse. This would not add value to your blog. It may attract a few thrill seekers, but not the enlightened traveler.
Matthew,
Read your blog daily and have been since the days of upgrd. I remember reading about the trip you took to Afghanistan, and although I thought it was totally nuts, you took the precautions that you could.
I just don’t think you can say with a straight face that the positives outweigh the negatives regarding Syria and North Korea. Syria is an active warzone (in which chemical agents have been deployed in case you needed a reminder). North Korea is run by a man-child that has killed members of his own family. And then there’s the whole detaining Americans whenever they feel like it.
You’re a father now and as someone mentioned above, you’re not allowed to do stupid sh*t anymore. Love the blog, but put your family first and don’t take unnecessary risks of this magnitude.
Hmm… life’s short. Syria sounds cool. But a review of a North Korean labor camp does not.
I MIGHT be able to justify going to Syria, as long as you take proper precautions and stay out of active conflict areas. North Korea, though? This is a government that has an annoying tendency to trump up charges against Americans to then hold them for political ransom. Not worth it. And my opinion on that would be the same regardless of your incident from yesterday.
Matthew, I think North Korea is a very bad idea. I myself looked very seriously into going about 4 years ago: You have to be guided, of course. You have to enter through a certain airport from China or by train. You are told where to aim your camera and where not to. You are told where to go and where not to go. You stay where they want you to stay.
All that was fine, and would be fine for you I’m sure. But my brother mentioned that I’d be putting money directly into the hands of this killer dictator/regime if I went. I never thought of it like that. For that, and a whole host of additional reasons I decided not to go. Plenty other journeys to take.
But you have many dangerous negatives that I don’t have. You have an open, real presence online. A long, easily traceable presence. Why wouldn’t you think the government wouldn’t check on every person entering their country? How many travel visas do you think they process each year? I could see you entering the country, then being arrested as a spy at some point. You wouldn’t have to do a thing to provoke the arrest, your online history would be enough. They would just make something up. You’re also a former member of the military and you served in the White House. Just think of the world-wide propaganda and coverage they would receive by parading you in front of the cameras and showing your mock trial. How much venal pleasure their thugs would get trying to break a US Serviceman. Trying to get you to admit to something. Anything.
You are also someone that the government might bargain for as well. Sure it’s against US policy to do it, but we know it happens all the time. What might this madman get in exchange for you? And in what kind of condition might you be in when/if you’re allowed to leave?
A man with a wife and infant need more than an insurance check. They need their husband and father. There must be places in the former Soviet Union to see those aircraft.
Please don’t go.
Another perspective:
Sure, we all die at some point. A certainty nobody can avoid. It doesn’t matter you are a husband or a father. If its time to go, you go. Wherever, whenever.
But what if, for example you were kidnapped and kidnappers demanded ransom? If your family didn’t pay, they may consider themself have killed you. If they have the money, or government support, they can pay the ransom and saved you. But then, they are liable to be accused of sponsoring terrorism!!! The governement which previously paid your ransom may also accused your families, office mate, neighbor for terrorism supporting activities!!! I’m sure you know the rest.
My point, even tough you have no bad intention coming to area of conflicts, doesn’t guarantee the guy next to you is also sincere. Everyone will do anything for their own profit. Hell, even some bloggers in boardingarea make a sensational title for a clickbait.
Choice is up to you, but if you do go, know the risks and consequences. For DPRK, make sure to pick a reputable tour agency that has had a longterm relationship with its DPRK partners and never had any issues with its clients.
I’ve visited North Korea as an American and i think as long as you pick a reputable tour group and simply follow their rules, you’ll be fine. Don’t wander around in places you don’t know and have a buddy system so you’re never alone at anytime during the tour. My friend and I used Koryo mainly due to its reputation but I also know there are other reputable tour companies out there that will brief you on the latest news/goings in DPRK. The main reason I travel to these places is to get my own perspective of the country rather than someone else’s.
Dear Joey,
My name is Aafke and I am a 21 year old student from The Netherlands. I study Tourism at Wageningen University and Research and am currently writing my bachelor thesis. My subject of interest is conflict tourism and I am mainly looking at the push and pull factors of choosing conflict areas as a tourism destination.
I am in the very first stages of the research, but am already looking for potential interviewees to get more info on this subject. As I read here, you have travelled to an area of (post)conflict, I would be very interested in an interview with you on this subject if that would be possible.
If this is the case or you have any questions, you are free to contact me on the e-mail address that I put in for this comment.
I hope to hear from you and thank you in advance.
Aafke Roelofs
Are you sure he was tortured ? What evidence do you have.. The kid took an ambiant and done himself in – End of story, move on and nothing to see here. I’m grateful that another Self entitled Y-Gen turd is off the planet to be truthful here
Only if you are going in furtherance of turning DPRK into South Korea’s newest tourist attraction, Grand Canyon Asia.
I went to DPRK last September. It was fine. Americans aren’t kidnapped all of the time. They just want your $USD. Use Young pioneer tours (they are the cheapest and all of the tours are the same) and spring for the private tour. Ask for Mr. Kim to be your guide, he is awesome. Email me if you have any questions – I was at FTU Seattle and asked you about getting an award flight to Albania – that turned out great, thanks!
You may not be able to travel to North Korea: https://www.axios.com/otto-warmbiers-death-north-korean-prison-trump-travel-ban-2444937806.html
I saw that too. That would make me more likely to go… 😉
Matthew, I have read your blog for a while and come to care about more than the posts you write, I have come to care about you and your family. I love that you are the adventurous type and believe that your posts about adventurous and less traveled places are quite a change of pace, informative, and interesting. I loved reading about your trip to Iran, Kazakhstan, Afghanistan, and much more. However, having said that I am begging you to skip North Korea for sure and ideally also skip Syria. If you want to go to Syria, go for it so long as you have your guard up and don’t do anything stupid. But the people who care about you will be worried sick for you if you go to North Korea. I don’t care what your beliefs are, the very fact you are an American is a problem in North Korea. You have so much potential in this business: your blog posts are so interesting, you help so many people travel effectively, you are a voice in the world of travel that not many people have the background that warrants their voice to be heard with the same merit as yours. I would hate to see you throw that away with a trip to North Korea. This is not about fear and letting the terrorists claim victory, this is about the well-being of a small child, a mother, and the travel industry as a whole, and all of the above would be seriously compromised if you took a trip to North Korea.
Matthew – two of the greatest trips i’ve been on came when writing my thesis on creative management and conflict tourism. I spent a month at the four seasons nile plaza (600′ from tehrir square) during the arab spring related uprisings. Then on much liter jote followed up with a trip to tel aviv amd west bank during last gaza conflict. Inwoukd say be smart about things, but really at no time did i feel in danger (except maybe making my way through cairo from hotel to airport in large black bulletproof audi A8, where people slapped car and tried to peer theough tinted windows to see who was inside! Lesson, more incognito is safer than bulletproof!)
Dear Phil,
My name is Aafke and I am a 21 year old student from The Netherlands. I study Tourism at Wageningen University and Research and am currently writing my bachelor thesis. My subject of interest is conflict tourism and I am mainly looking at the push and pull factors of choosing conflict areas as a tourism destination.
I am in the very first stages of the research, but am already looking for potential interviewees to get more info on this subject. As I read here, you have travelled to an area of (post)conflict, I would be very interested in an interview with you on this subject if that would be possible.
If this is the case or you have any questions, you are free to contact me on the e-mail address that I put in for this comment.
I hope to hear from you and thank you in advance.
Aafke Roelofs
Matthew, as one of your biggest fans, and echoing many of the comnemts above, don’t go to North Korea.
To: Maria Barahona- I had to laugh when I read your article, as it looks similar to stuff which is printed by Hezbollah, Hamas, and Al-Jazeera. Regarding your inaccurate use of the word “Apartheid”, in describing Israel, Black South Africans who lived for many years under the former Apartheid regime in South Africa, and who have lived in Israel, have expressed outrage of the use of that term, vis-a-vis Israel. They’ve pointed out that Arabs from all over the Middle East come to the Hadassah Medical Center in Jerusalem, and the Rambam Medical Center in Haifa, where they are given first rate treatment; in many cases, those who can’t afford to pay, are not charged at all. Countries which don’t have diplomatic relations with Israel, come to Israel for medical treatment, but keep the details secret. Israel is even giving free medical care to victims of the Syrian civil war, which has caused hundreds of thousands of deaths. It also did so during the Lebanese civil war, from 1975-1990. There are many Palestinians who live on the West Bank, who are scramble at the opportunity to come to Israel, where they receive social service benefits, which are not provided by the Palestinian Authority. Many have told the Israelis that they have more civil rights in Israel, than they have under the Palestinian Authority.
Incidentally, regarding your term of “illegal military occupation”, who started the 1967 war? Israel warned King Hussein to stay out of the war. Instead, he decided to join his buddies in Egypt and Syria, and started shelling Jerusalem indiscriminately, causing hundreds of deaths of civilians. It was only then, that the old city of Jerusalem was taken, as well as the West Bank. The Arab-Israeli conflict could have been settled a long time ago. However, the Arabs have consistently stated “No negotiation, no recognition of Israel, and No Peace”. Incidentally, Ms. Barahona, where were you with similar indignation when the Arabs detained, persecuted, tortured, and expelled all of the Jews out of Syria, Iraq, Egypt, Lebanon, and Libya? They seized all of their property, and were only allowed to leave with the clothes on their backs. There were nearly 1,000,000 Jews from Muslim countries who were kicked out. Yet, nobody ever talks about that.
Matthew – love the blog, love the posts, and echoing many others, love the adventures that you get up to. But don’t think visiting Syria or North Korea should be a priority – particularly not following Otto’s death. There are many other conflict zones you can visit, eg Congo, but just don’t think you need to go to places like Syria and North Korea to continue generating interesting content for your readers. We’d continue to read and support you without a visit to these two places.
I came across you blog today and I did enjoy reading it (still reading). I am sorry for the United incident 4 years ago. Very uncalled for and extremely unprofessional from United staff.
Now, in one of your reviews (don’t remember if it was about a hotel in Baku, Kuwait City or somewhere in that side of the world) you wrote about staff (and I can’t quote verbatim, so I’ll paraphrase) waiting for you and greeting you by your name because it was late at night, they were expecting an American to check-in and when the bellboy (doorman? Can’t remember) saw you, he greeted you and addressed you by your name. Your explanation “because they were expecting an American late at night…and with my “American look””. Do you mind elaborating what is an “American looking man” in a country with 300M+ citizens of different ethnicities? Or, was it an unintentional white privilege moment?
Hi Roberto, thank you for reading.
You are referring to this review:
http://liveandletsfly.boardingarea.com/2013/11/05/review-park-hyatt-baku/
I do stand by my words.
An “American looking guy” can refer to many different kinds of people, but certainly I do look like many other Americans and was traveling alone.
Hey Roberto, what is this garbage that you are expounding about “white privilege”. Do you think that all whites in the USA, are very well to do financially? If you would read statistics published by the Department of Health, Education and Welfare, you would see that most poor persons in this country, are not persons of color, but are white individuals. The term “white privilege” is a misnomer, and albeit a racist term, used by those who seek to divide Americans by race, class, and ethnicity. The fact of the matter is that foreigners overseas can spot an American a mile away, no matter if the American is White or Black, Hispanic, or any other ethnic group.
I have been to Franco’s Spain, with scared kids carrying machine guns on every street corner. I’ve been to visit a Hindu family in Kashmir (long since out of there), and crossed a line of UN peacekeeping troops at the airport. I traveled around Soviet Lithuania in the summer of 1971, between the time they declared independence and the time Moscovites made it real. I learned quite a bit about how Putin thinks in my short visit, as the KGB routinely cut off outside communications at several points during our visit, at which point they could have done anything to anyone. To say nothing of all the scared conscripted kids from all over the Soviet “Union” with machine guns on every corner.
But there are three big differences between my trips and your plans. Number One: I was single with no dependents. Number Two: I was not there because things were unstable. Number Three: I wasn’t putting the status of the US in the region in danger with my visits.
You’re a US citizen, I gather. That means by risking anything at all in a trip to NK, you are potentially putting our whole nation at risk of war with the wild instability there now. And Syria, ditto. This isn’t just about you, or even your family. Go play Risk somewhere else, on someone else’s dime. My two cents.
Dear Matthew,
My name is Aafke and I am a 21 year old student from The Netherlands. I study Tourism at Wageningen University and Research and am currently writing my bachelor thesis. My subject of interest is conflict tourism and I am mainly looking at the push and pull factors of choosing conflict areas as a tourism destination.
I am in the very first stages of the research, but am already looking for potential interviewees to get more info on this subject. As I read here, you have traveled to several areas of (post)conflict, I would be very interested in an interview with you on this subject if that would be possible.
I am not entirely sure how this works, but as I put in my email by submitting a reply, I hope you would perhaps be able to contact me there if you would be interested in assisting me with my research or have any questions.
Thank you in advance.
It would be my pleasure to speak with you on this. I’ll send you an email.
Would you still be open to do this? I sent an email recently 🙂
Kind regards